Bistro assessment: 44 Hill Road Restaurant (News)


Eating places are like mushrooms. They thrive at midnight and are fed all types of crap, principally from critics, diners, suppliers, buyers and banks. Unexpectedly, they can be cellular.

Take La Bastille, the sturdy French bistro, which lived in a semi-basement on the Lisburn Highway in Belfast for 10 years. It lately uprooted the sizeable duplicate Eiffel Tower which was a landmark eyesore planted very visibly close to the footpath after which moved the entire restaurant equipment and caboodle to the Cathedral Quarter.

Fortunately, there isn’t a signal of the tower on the new tackle. However the Gallic attraction is extra evident than ever. The brand new restaurant rejoices in a extra on-trend aged city and industrial temper, with barrels, bricks and naked wooden tables. The lighting can be glorious.

I did not assume you have been allowed to open a bar, or restaurant, in Hill Road except it regarded prefer it had been burned down and demolished by Eastwoods after which swiftly rebuilt, twice, utilizing scrap metallic from Clearway and offcuts from JP Corry timber retailers.

44 has a strong and complicated fashion of its personal and arrival by way of the charming, cooper’s entrance indicators a way of high quality and event. Expectations are raised.

The primary human contact on coming into is with a person who is just not expressing the heat of a welcoming inn-keeper. It isn’t known as the hospitality trade for individuals engaged in it to miss the best of courtesies. Any strains from the restaurants-for-beginners lexicon which incorporates the phrases “Whats up”, “You are welcome”, “The place would you want to take a seat?” and so forth are remarkably absent.

I am amazed that restaurateurs cannot get this bit proper, because it’s the best a part of the commerce: to make individuals really feel welcome. It is what brings repeat commerce.

It seems that the unhappy-looking man is proprietor Guillaume Rabillat whose son, Luc, is ready on tables at this time and who’s, fortunately, youthful, charming and nice.

I get previous the brusqueness and dive into the menu, which options specials of tapas, starters and mains, all compelling. My navigator at this time is Geoff Hill, the well-known journey author and adventurer, who has a great eye for meals, drink and repair.

We agree decisions of dishes to create most unfold. There are tapas of crispy and moist French black pudding discs topped with a tangy apple puree, accompanied by some rocket leaves. Geoff and I squabble over them as there are 5 between the 2 of us. One other of crispy lamb stomach is excellent, all little salty bites and flakes of meat on a mattress of lettuce.

A goat’s cheese tartlet is topped with baked heirloom tomatoes, which brings out the sharpness and acidity to prime the sleek dryness of the goat’s cheese and relative sweetness of the flaky pastry.

A charred pork chop is heavenly, tender, stuffed with breathy, piggy flavours, however a bit imply and thin for the £20 asking worth. Geoff’s steak bruschetta is impressively beneficiant, though the visuals might have been barely contorted by the enormous slab of toasted sourdough underpinning the whole lot.

Other than the pork chop, costs are very affordable. A superb bottle of effectively chilled Rose d’Anjou is just £22, the tapas are priced by quantity and that steak bruschetta is on supply within the lunch menu costing £15 for 3 programs.

The desserts characteristic some uncommon choices, together with a chocolate mousse crumble which is sensational. The crumble is made with cracked and crushed almonds and pistachio, giving welcome texture to the velvety, ethereal mousse, which has an depth of flavour as solely the French handle to do with these desserts. The lemon tart quick crust has dampened and misplaced its texture, however the lemon and meringue are spot on.

My massive gripe with lunchtime eating places is the size of time it takes to finish a meal. Absolutely, most of us are at work at the moment and managing to flee to a restaurant for an hour to get lunch needs to be straightforward? This lunch took virtually two hours. A point out once you sit down that you just’re in a rush ought to assist.

44 is an genuine French restaurant and the proficient chef Paul Caulet produces lovely and weird dishes. It is higher than many eating places we used to go to across the Charente area, which is the place M Rabillat is from.

The room is atmospheric, the meals is prime class. As soon as the service is slicked up and M Rabillat relaxes a bit, this can be a best choice for a lot of repeat guests. I do know I will be again quickly.

The invoice

Black pudding £3.60

Lamb stomach £3.60

Tartelette £7.50

Mackerel bruschetta £7.50

Pork chop £20

Steak bruschetta £7

Choc mousse £6

Lemon tart £6

Rosé d’Anjou £22

Coffees £5.50

Complete £88.70

Belfast Telegraph


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